Provencal printed fabrics and indiennes of Provence

A novelty from India

The history of Provencal prints as we know them today leads us back to the 16th century.

At that time, the port of Marseille which has just been freed by Colbert has an increasing activity, and many goods are imported from the Indies. Among them, cotton fabrics with floral and bright colors thanks to unalterable dyes. These Indiennes, as they have been called, immediately obtain a big hit from the local population.

Indeed, cotton fabrics are not known in Europe in the context of the 16th century. The fabrics used at the time are hemp, linen, wool for the poor, silk, and velvet for the richest. The cotton coming from India is a total novelty. And the patterns of flowers obtained by printing the pattern of wood on this lightweight fabric look like nothing already known.

These indian print fabrics spread quickly in the region first, then throughout France through the Beaucaire fair. They are also very popular with noble ladies who love fashion and the newest items. The Indiennes of Provence are conquering the kingdom.

Little by little, Provencal merchants begin to imitate Indian manufacturers. They use engraved wooden planks and copper patterned boards to create patterns similar to creations from India and Persia. Both manufacturing and commerce are developing and flooding the kingdom's markets. Numerous indiennes makers settle in Arles, Avignon, Nimes and Aix.

Prohibition

They develop so quick that protectionist measures are finally taken in the Kingdom of France. From 1686, the manufacture, marketing of indiennes and even the wearing of clothes made in the famous Provencal fabrics is forbidden. This is the era of prohibition that will last until the mid 18th century.

Indian printed cottons, however, are still used in a strictly domestic context, because the local population is attached to the benefits of easy maintenance. They can wash these colored linen with Marseille soap without losing original colors, while silks and velvet are damaged in the same process. It's a small revolution, but coming out dressed in printed cotton is absolutely unthinkable !

The indiennes manufacturers then turn to territories outside the kingdom to continue their trade. They settle in Avignon under the papal authority, to escape the royal edict. At the beginning of the century, a Marseillais solicits and obtains the authorization to manufacture furnishing articles in white cotton canvas from the Minister Colbert. They are destined abroad only, whereas they remain prohibited in the kingdom (until 1759). One condition: to be stitched in Marseille.

These successions of events obviously mark the birth of the pique de Marseille, first white, then printed with Indian motifs : they’re becoming Provencal. A cotton pique is a fabric made of a layer of wadding between two layers of cotton fabric. The quilting forms drawings in the thickness. Some motifs are said to have been inspired by a Marseilles playing card manufacturer. From there, the Marseille Academy of Painting helps to diversify the creation of motifs.

Development and the industrial era

After the prohibition, the production develops throughout Provence and becomes much more important than imports.

The success of the indiennes is still there : the Provencales become keen on these light cottons, with many colorful and cheerful patterns, easy to maintain.

This fashion lasts until the end of the 19th century. With the arrival of the industrial era, Provencal people slowly but surely abandon their traditional costumes for more appropriate clothes. The decline is coming, and the factories begin to close.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the last indienne manufacture of Provence remains active thanks to the Demery family: the Souleiado company and its museum today perpetuates the memory of this once flourishing industry.

Nowadays

Currently, several houses continue to market cotton items in Provencal prints mainly in clothing and decoration. Among them, Souleiado, of course, but also Les Indiennes de Nimes, and Les Olivades, which is the last company to print the indiennes in Saint Etienne du Gres, near Tarascon.

The Marat d'Avignon® house, less known, is however present on this high-end niche since 1948 and still participates today in the creation of traditional and very emblematic motifs. It’s more specialized in fabrics for tableware and decoration. For example, the Avignon collection is truly demonstrative: it is a motif that combines "mouches" with floral friezes.

Of course, nowadays we find the Provencal prints on the markets (not only in Provence), but one must be wary of the proposed quality. Some items are not made in the region but come from foreign countries ... The quality of the fabric and the finishes are not at the same level as the goods made in Provence.

Today, small traditional motifs such as the "mouche" or the "calisson", timeless, alongside the more evocative drawings of Provencal natural elements: cicadas, lavender, olive, poppies ... Sometimes, fabric pattern is inspired by the Provencal faience: here, the Moustiers motif.

No matter the design, the Provencal prints are recognizable by all, thanks to their bright colors and their lightness, as in the time of the old indiennes. Everyone appreciates their authenticity! They are always acclaimed and adapt perfectly to everyday life.

Evolutions

It’s now possible to coat printed cottons with a thin layer of acrylic to make them more stain resistant. This modern technique has a real advantage for everyday use: less laundry and ironing. Coated tablecloths keep their appearance as cloth tablecovers but are cleaned with a sponge.

The genuine piques of Marseilles used formerly mainly as bed linen are today replaced by quilted goods, machine stitched, in the « standard » shops. They obviously do not have the same charm as the hand stitch. They call it « boutis » without knowing what is really a genuine Provencal boutis. It’s a totally different stitching method! Language abuse…

The printed cottons are very useful in the art de la table and in the kitchen because the thickness can isolate from heat, for instance. Less thick and more regular than the quilts of yesteryear, quilted cotton fabrics are perfect for certain uses: placemats, oven gloves, tablemats and table runners.

The ultra practical and pretty Provencal prints continue to please many unconditional users. In 2019, the indiennes are more than ever up to date since small repetitive patterns are fashionable.